The Grand tour of Greenland - Ice Camp Eqi

21JUL: Sailing trip to Eqi - accommodation in cabins
Map of Greenland - Grönlandsresor
Day 11

Today we sail up north to Eqi, the calving glacier. Keep a lookout for seals and whales. As we reach Eqi the boat sails close to the impressive glacier front, where you may be lucky to see small calvings.

Afterwards we go ashore at Glacier Lodge Eqi, located in the middle of the nature with beautiful views directly to the glacier. We spend the following 2 nights in small cozy one room wooden cabins for one or two persons (no bunk beds and no sleeping bags).

There is no running water or sewerage system in the standard cabins. This is part of the concept! You will get a water bottle for use in the washstand and each cabin is equipped with a toilet bucket in a private toilet room. The cabins are equipped with a gas stove for heating and candles as a light source.

Aladdin is booked in the comfort cabin Eqi with electricity and my own bathroom with running water

All meals are served in Café Victor.

Your guide organizes hiking trips in the area, including trips to the lagoon and the moraine, which offers a spectacular view over the Eqi glacier. The area invites for numerous hiking opportunities, and it is up to you to decide whether to join a hiking trip or meditate amid the harsh, desolate and beautiful landscape perhaps out on the cabin’s terrace.
Grönlandsresor


Tuesday 21st of July 2015 and seriously, when they called me at 5 o'clock I really wished I was back home. I have been on the way for more than a month now and it will be almost 2 more weeks Ilulissatbefore I'm home again. OK, will take some time before I get on the road again. Believe me it is no rest and relax.

A beautiful experience but I'm exhausted and next time I will keep it to 3 weeks away. This is too long.

Africa and Laos was perfect, 3 weeks of adventure and back home. Antarctica is a 3 week cruise, and Amazonas is also 3 weeks so that will be OK. Anyway, I have had the time of my life and 5 o'clock in the morning, Ilulissatwe're going to see a beautiful glacier so I can't complain. I had a shower and I brought my bags to the restaurant where I had my breakfast.

First they told me that we were going to leave at 06:40 and yesterday the girl in the reception told me that the bus left at 06:20. And now it was back to 06:40.

We took the shuttle to World of Greenland's office where we will change vans. Then we will go to the port where Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk will take us to Eqi. It is a 5 hour boat trip from Ilulissat to Ice Camp Eqi. But we will stay 2 hours just of the Eqi glacier so we will Ilulissatnot be at Ice Camp Eqi until 2 o'clock in the afternoon.

Leaving the hotel and people were fighting to get in to the van. The last passenger had to force himself through the door.

I stayed behind as, well, this is not what I have paid for. And of course, you don't need to be a rocket scientist to realise that they have to go with a second van. We were only 2 people in the second van. Same when we changed van at World of Greenland's office, fight to get a seat in the van and I was together with 2 girls in the second van leaving for Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk.

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk in Ilulissat

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Boarding Aviaq Ittuk in Ilulissat

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Boarding Aviaq Ittuk in Ilulissat

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Aviaq Ittuk ready to leave Ilulissat

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Aviaq Ittuk ready to leave Ilulissat

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Aviaq Ittuk leaving leave Ilulissat

With Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk to Eqi
Most of the ice is gone by now

We left Ilulissat just after 7 o'clock and we still have iceberg outside Ilulissat but most of the smaller ice is gone. All the passengers were sitting inside but as I wanted to keep an eye out for whales I was sitting on deck. It was cold, but if I can see a whale it is worth it. I was soon joined by the couple from Australia and we had a chat while keeping an eye out for whales.

It was a foggy morning so it would be hard to spot any whales. But it was beautiful with the fog Yet another Smiley on www.aladdin.stover the icebergs. When we approached Eqi the fog disappeared and we got sunshine. And With Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk to Eqisun and blue sky is the weather we have got used to by now. Everyday have been a very nice day since we arrived to Greenland.

But I was happy for the fog this morning as it made the ice landscape much more beautiful. I enjoyed our trip even With Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk to Eqithough it was cold. But what to expect with icebergs and this is the reason for me to come visit Greenland. I have been pleasantly surprised by the weather so far.

We were soon out from the ice and we passed the bay where we had seen the whales on our whale watching, but today there was no sign of any Humpback whales.

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Passing icebergs in the fog

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Black ice

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
We leave the big icebergs behind and the sun shows up

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
We stop at a waterfall

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Eqi glacier
We can see the Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier
It is getting cold again as the water is full of ice from the glacier

Eqi glacier
We approach the Eqi Glacier


It was cold in the fog but after a few hours the sun came out from behind the fog and it was kind of nice. We stopped to have a look at a water fall and now we could see the Eqi Glacier. And as we Eqi glaciercame closer the water was full of ice from Eqi and it was getting cold again.

We stopped in front of the glacier and we could hear noise like bombs and thunder. The ice was alive moving slowly out to the sea. We saw some calving but it mostly looked like powder. Hard to estimate the size. Just as on Svalbard they look small as there is nothing to compare with.

But when the Polar bear crossed the glacier we could see how big the glacier was. And Eqi is huge comparing to the glaciers we saw on Svalbard. But these “powder” calving set off big swell in the bay. And when Eqi drops big blocks there are a tsunami in the bay. You don't want to come too close

This is a sight you never get tired off. And the sound from the glacier. This was for sure nothing I would have liked to live without seeing and hearing. What an experience! And this is glacier straight out in to the sea. Much smaller than the glacier at Ilulissat but it looks bigger, Ice coming down from 2000m and a 100m ice wall don't look so big. Eqi is small but more impressive. And of course, it helps that we can come up close to the ice wall.

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk

Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier
Another boat is coming to watch Eqi

Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier
A seal on the ice

Eqi glacier
A seal on the ice

Eqi glacier
We leave Eqi glacier for Ice Camp Eqi

Eqi glacier
Eqi glacier

Eqi glacier
Stand-by to get off at Ice Camp Eqi

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Stand-by to get off at Ice Camp Eqi

We left the glacier after 2 hours and I saw a seal on the ice on the way to Ice Camp Eqi. We had to be stand-by on the starboard side to get off the boat. Later on I found out that we had to get Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victoroff as quick as possible and run up the stairs and then the passengers leaving Ice Camp Eqi had to run down and on board the boat.

And I learned that this was because of the tsunamis created when icebergs broke loose from the glacier. Well, I got off the boat and I sat down my bags and I started to take pictures. Didn't took long before a guy started to scream at me to run up the mountain.
- What the Yet another Smiley on www.aladdin.st is going on. I'm taking pictures!
- You have to run up the stairs!

I got up the first stairs and I stopped again for more pictures. More screaming and now there was Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victora guy taking my bag. Thank God for that! It was a long climb and I had all my luggage with me, my fellow passengers had left their luggage at Hotel Arctic back in Ilulissat

I stood there and I continue to take pictures of the boat with the Eqi glacier in the background.

The guy started to scream again. He was nagging and nagging about me hurry up to get up to the camp.

He went on about how dangerous it was and now I really got annoyed. I told him that no one had told me it was so dangerous here. And if it is so dangerous they should not take people to come here.
- It is important for you to get to the camp
- Where is the foocking fire?
- You have to hurry up!
Now I got a wee bit vexed
- I'm taking some foocking pictures. Where does it say that I cannot take pictures?
Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor- You can take pictures later
- By then the boat is gone!

I reached the area where the leaving passengers were waiting and there was a sign saying “safe area” and I stopped again to take more pictures. I could not believe my ears.

Now the waiting passengers starting to tell me about the tsunamis. We were high above the water and it said “safe area” on the sign.
- Here is no foocking tsunamis coming up here.

The passengers left for the boat and now the guy was back. We were really in a hurry to get up to the restaurant for an introduction meeting. What kind of place is this? I regretted that I had left the hotel in Ilulissat. I told him that I was a paying customer and I would come to the meeting, but I was not going to run. We pay to stay here, and believe me, it is a hefty price tag. So they should give me a private introduction if I for an example want to have a glass of water when I reach my cabin.

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
I'm in the safe zone taking pictures

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Nice, one bag less for me to carry

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk leaving for Ilulissat

Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk
Disko Line's boat Aviaq Ittuk leaving for Ilulissat

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
My cabin on the left hand side with Eqi glacier

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
We have the super important introduction meeting

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Eqi glacier from the camp

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
The bring up the cargo from the boat with a lawn mower with caterpillars

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
The other guests take off on a hike and I go to my room

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
My room

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
My room

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
View from my room

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
The cabins with electricity and water/ shower

SI put my bags in my cabin and I was grateful that the guy had brought up my big bag. It was a steep hill to climb. Hurry hurry for some meeting. I did not even have time to have a glass of water. When we were ready with the meeting the guests took off on a hike and I went to my cabin. I will spend the afternoon relaxing and checking the glacier.

I really liked my cabin and there are 4 of the comfort cabins with running water and electricity. I had booked one of them. When I came for dinner my Guide asked how I liked the cabin. I said it was very nice and he told me that the others wouldn't mind living in one of the comfort cabins. Of course, to stay in a cabin without water or electricity.

I checked the price list at our introduction meeting and 50 US Dollars for the dinner buffet. This sounded good and I was looking forward to the dinner buffet, not expecting it to be anything like Marriott in Bangkok. But I pais about the same for the Greenland buffet at my hotel yesterday and that was actually a very good buffet.

Well, imagine my disappointment when I came for dinner. Where the foock did all the people come from? And all of them around the table fighting for the food. The dinner buffet was a small table with 4 flat stones. Some fried wild animal on one of the stones, white cabbage on one of the stones. There was boiled fish on one of the stones and the last stone was something I didn't know what it was, it was a mushy mash of something.

I asked for boiled potatoes, no this is what they had. I got angry, greedy bastards and of course giving me the “middle of nowhere” card. Well, we had the 5 star treatment in Africa in far more remote places. Here they have a boat coming everyday. But this is obviously for beer and candy. Plenty beer and wine to buy. A good selection of chocolate to buy. But no foocking potatoes or Polar Fox at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victorfresh bread. AND ONE SALT SHAKER FOR 8 TABLES!

Buffet, seriously, there are countries that would close down your business if you call cabbage (OK, there were something that looked like peanuts mixed with the cabbage) steamed fish, a plate with meat and a plate with some mushy mash for a buffet.

And the worst, are you sitting down or holding on to something sturdy? Are you ready? Here it comes. There was a tip box! And this is after having to clear your table by yourself when you are ready. I left my plate on the table and I did not give any tip! I was not happy when I came back to my cabin. But I was soon forgetting about the dinner experience as there was a Polar Fox just Polar Fox at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victoroutside my window.

I just grabbed my camera and I started t run after the fox for some pictures. He was not afraid and I came maybe 5 meters from him and we stood there looking at each other’s. I got some pictures and I was all excited and I just took the pictures. My camera should be on automatic, best for me. I have spent the day taking pictures of white ice and the camera was set for this. So taking pictures of a black fox and the shutter time was a wee bit too long and the pictures was a little blurred from motion.

I had the same problem in Indonesia, but opposite. I had been taking night pictures and early morning we pass a volcano. I was all excited and just took the pictures and they all turned out to b white only as I had set the camera for night photos.
Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Evening outside my cabin

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Eqi glacier from my room

Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Evening outside my cabin

The cabin, gorgeous view over the glacier and with the thunder from the ice. Sometimes I could feel the whole cabin shaking from the movements in the glacier. This is something that have to be experienced. I was 20 minutes on my balcony watching a hue piece that would fall off. Of course it did not and I went back inside. An hour later and I saw people running down to the landing place

I saw a huge wave and the piece had felt off and they expected a Tsunami to hit and we wanted to see. The waves hit us. It was amazing to see the whole bay coming in to motion. You could not see the wave until if hit the shore line. But all the ice on the bay started to move. A truly beautiful sight to see this in front of my eyes. But I was a wee bit disappointed that I had missed the iceberg falling of the glacier.

DARN! Just what I had been waiting for, tsunami or not, the calving is what I wanted to see. I have seen plenty of the small calving but this big one I would like to have seen. But I can imagine how it had been looking. And that will have to do for now and there is a day tomorrow as well.

Tsunami at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Tsunami

Tsunami at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Tsunami

Tsunami at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Tsunami

Tsunami at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Tsunami

Tsunami at Ice Camp Eqi/ Port Victor
Tsunami

Well, we will spend the whole day here tomorrow so I might see a big calving. But anyway, I will enjoy the sight and you just need to click HERE to find out if experience any huge calving.





       
                  

OK, it has come to my knowledge that we have senior citizen visiting my web page. How hard can it be? So it's not very easy for them to see the blue coloured links to the next page.
Jiffy (also jiff)

noun [in SING.] informal a moment: we'll be back in a jiffy.

ORIGIN late 18th cent.: of unknown origin.

So as you understand, in a jiff pretty much depends on your internet.
So I put a “Next” button here and I hope that there isn't any problem to understand how to use that one. So just CLICK the “Next” button on your left hand side and you will be on the next page in a jiff!

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Faites vous parlez le français? Pas de problème! Pour arriver à la page suivante faites s'il vous plaît un déclic le bouton “Next” ci-dessus!

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Farla parla l'italiano? Non problemi! Per vedere la prossima pagina lo scatto per favore giusto Il bottone “Next” sopra

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E ni Svenskar och inte förstår Engelska så ska ni skämmas. J och Björn, med det menar jag inte att alla mina stavfel ska ältas varje gång vi träffas.

Flag of Skåne / Skånska flaggan Well, the flag of Skåne, just a BONUS flag.


                                       

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